Sour Milk Chocolate
Please excuse this post: it really is just an intellectual excursion as I can’t find any way to link it to Israel! I’m reading The Lions of Lucerne by Brad Thor on my Kindle at the moment. It was his first thriller in the Scot Harvath series and I decided to go back and fill in as I seem to have read the most recent four in the series. And like all the others of his I’ve read, it’s a rip roaring read.
Without giving any spoilers, and with the word Lucerne in the title, it shouldn’t come as a shock that Switzerland comes into the story. Specifically Brad mentions Swiss chocolate and the fact that some versions of Swiss Nestlé chocolate are never sold in the US.
A long time ago, when I was studying for my PhD in the UK, we had a lecture on the physics of chocolate given by one of the materials scientists for Rowntree (a major chocolate manufacturer in York) who were bought by Swiss Nestlé in 1988. At the time, Rowntree manufactured the Kit-Kat in York. This is one of the names that Nestlé uses internationally. The following is my rendering of a talk I heard 15 years ago so maybe it’s all wrong, but I can’t find this story on the web!
Nestlé tried to consolidate worldwide Kit-Kat production and chose York. But, try as hard as they might, they could never get Kit-Kats made in York to be accepted in the US. No matter what they tried to do with the chemistry and the physical processing of the chocolate, they could never replicate the distinctive Hershey chocolate taste that is used in the US versions of the product.
So here, if my memory serves me, is the reason why!
Milk chocolate has never been made with liquid milk. In fact, the history of milk chocolate starts in Switzerland in 1843 as a collaboration between Daniel Peter, who was making non-milk chocolate, and Henry Nestlé, who had recently invented a process to make baby food: what he called “milky flour”. This is basically dried milk that can be stored for a very long time before being re-hydrated and used (as every non-breastfeeding parent knows).
After years of work Peter came up with the correct, stable mix of cocoa, sugar and milk. There are significant differences in where the fat is between baby food and the milk used in milk chocolate, but essentially the process of drying the milk is similar. The chemistry of this mix is fascinating and the impact that the relative sizes of the grains and fat globules in the mix have on the taste and texture are amazing.
For readers in the UK, the difference between Cadbury’s Dairy Milk and Mars’s Galaxy chocolate, for instance, comes down to an almost infinitesimally small difference in the grain sizes of sugars and other solids in those two chocolates. Under a microscope it’s hard to see, pop a cube in the mouth and any 5 year old can tell you which is smoother and has the smaller grain size.
But what about America? As milk chocolate became more popular, and coupled with the rise in formula baby food, plants to dry milk sprang up all over the world. In geographically small Europe, this generally meant they were built near the cows. In America, just as the vast west was expanding, the distances from cows to milk condensing plants were larger. Refrigerated transport wasn’t really an option yet.
So the milk that was used for milk chocolate in the US was nearly always slightly soured by the time it was processed. I’m not having a dig; there was never any health implication to this, its just a difference.
This slight souring of the milk made a crucial difference to the taste of the chocolate. For generations of American kids, the taste of chocolate is Hershey’s. This taste of chocolate is completely different to the mass chocolate of the UK or most of Europe. I’m not talking about fine, high cocoa chocolates, I’m talking about the cheap, comforting stuff that we learn to love as children.
It turns out that the taste of chocolate we acquire as kids stays with us for the rest of our lives. Adults raised on the European taste often report the US Hershey taste as being unpalatable: I personally can’t eat it! American adults raised on Hershey have the same thing. That’s not to say you can’t learn to appreciate the other: people learn to love fine dark chocolates or things they weren’t brought up on. But give a US 5 year old a bar of UK Dairy Milk and he’ll notice the difference: he’ll probably eat it though!
And this was why (at that time, I’ve no idea what happened since) Nestlé just couldn’t make Kit-Kats in the UK that were suitable for the US market.
So Brad, if you’re reading this, you either did some excellent research or you hit on something most people feel instinctively but don’t know the reason for.
About the Author
Brian of London is not the messiah, he's a very naughty boy. Since making aliyah in 2009, Brian has blogged at Israellycool. Brian's interests include world peace and an end to world hunger.Besides blogging here, Brian of London now writes for PJ Media. Brian of London also hosted Shire Network NewsFiled Under: Brian of London • General
Brian’s posts are like a box of chocolates. You never know what you’re going to get. A Hershey bar is one of those simple pleasures, deeply satisfying and never disappointing. Unlike Brian of London. What did you get your PHD in, tactlessness?
I went out of my way to be all multi-culti, trying not to be overtly rude about US chocolate. I could have said far worse, like how many people report that it tastes like vomit to them!
Jim from Iowa, you are like a box of chocolates with a mouse trap hidden under the separating paper.
Yeah, I’m also a bit nonplussed at your reaction, Jim. You seem to be harboring some Brian issues.
All I know is, I liked this post, notwithstanding the fact I am fasting today and I really did not need the mental image of chocolate!
But mostly I’m talking about evil Yank chocolate that would make you gag anyway. You’re better off fasting.
What’s your take on Zionist Death Chocolate?
As an Australian, you may not fully understand this. But this is a matter of American pride. A pride in its treasured chocolate bars. An assault such as Brian’s needs to be met with full force and perhaps an acknowledgement to the otherwise stupid idea of American exceptionalism when it comes to the beloved Hershey bar.
I will wholeheartedly agree: Hershey’s is exceptional. Exceptionally hard to stomach if you weren’t raised on it as a child!
I LOVE Hersheys chocolate.
BTW, if Brian of London thinks that American chocolate tastes like vomit, it must be due to his upbringing, after all aren’t the British known for their fine food? Cough. Cough. Haggis anyone?
As a fellow Brit I have to concur with Brian’s conclusion that Hershey tastes a lot like vomit, except the cookies and creme (sic) which is quite nice, although that’s actually made in Brazil.
I was always worried that when I saw Hershey’s chocolate over in the UK it was always described as ‘chocolate flavoured candy’ rather than simply ‘milk chocolate’. I was told this was because they didn’t use enough cocoa solids for it to be described as chocolate in Britain although I’m not sure how true this is.
The whole thing about how much cocoa solids is nonsense to be honest. It’s all a matter of taste and personal preference. It’s just evil technocrats of the EUSSR trying to impose pointless standards on people when their own sense of taste should be the guide.
The thing to remember is that the taste you had a as a child is very important to you for a long time to come. Minute differences in the chemistry and physical attributes of that chocolate and you’ll notice. In many ways chocolate is just as complex as fine wine. There’s good plonk you can happily drink often and there’s fine stuff you appreciate on occasion.
This. It’s the chocolate analog to the Pizza Cognition Theory:
http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2009/12/sam-siftons-pizza-cognition-theory.html
“The first slice of pizza [or in this case, chocolate bar] a child sees and tastes … becomes, for him, pizza.”
Well, like Evolution, this is only a theory. And a good thing, too. I’m pretty sure my first experience with pizza was the kind you make at home from a Chef Boyardee “pizza kit” in a box. The crust was soft and doughy and the “cheese” was that dried out parmasean kind. Not good.
Well, my first taste of chocolate was in Cyprus and came out of a ration pack that my Dad brought back from the first gulf war. I’ve no idea what that would have been but I doubt that it would have been great quality given the typical contents of one of those ‘mystery bags’.
I don’t drink alcohol but I can tell the difference between nearly all the brands of cola on the market, a skill that I think you Gentlemen will agree that I can be proud of.
I figured it out… Jim’s a bit tired and emotional after the departure of the Caucus junket.
Personally, I enjoy both Hershey’s and Cadbury’s plain milk chocolate.
Yet nothing compares to high end Belgian or Swiss. Give me a Godiva truffle any time, any day.
On this we agree completely Shy Guy. You’re American palette has not let you down, even after all of these years. And what would the Brits know about fine dining anyway? Fish and Chips?!!? I wouldn’t feed it to a stray cat for fear of being turned in for animal cruelty.
Jim, blame the Jooz for fish n’ chips.
Don’t get me wrong. I like them but that’s it. And I happen to like Hershey more than Cadbury. However, now I’m wondering whether that really does have to do with childhood taste acquisition.
As for plain Israeli Elite chocolate – feh. It’s like Israel’s Tnuva sliced cheese – plastic. However, many of Elite’s candy bars are not bad at all.
Surely, Jim you must see the hypocrisy in an American complaining about the dining habits of the British.
Not sure what you mean by “dining habits”. If you’re talking about manners, there are no lack of slobs in either country.
Historically, the British have almost nothing original to offer the culinary world, while the US does – but mainly because the US became a melting pot long ago.
Lord knows how much I used to suffer from Brits in my family who would boil a roast beef with onions, potatoes and the ever obligatory bay leaf.
I’m not entirely sure how you boil roast beef (I think when you boil it it’s a brisket and that’s not typical in the UK) and I don’t think I’ve seen a Bay leaf ever on a roast as they don’t grow in the UK.
The remark was in response to Jim sneering at fish and chips which is preposterous given what the USA has done to food. As is the intimation that the USA has done much in the way of ‘original’ recipes given your own admission that their food history is down to being a ‘melting pot’.
Even the icon of American food, the Hamburger, is essentially a mass produced frikadelle.
Clearly it isn’t true that Britain has had nothing to offer the world from a culinary perspective. Britain’s influence throughout the world not only introduced new ingredients to Europe but also allowed us to export our own food throughout the world which is still evident today.
It’s important to remember that British food is traditionally based on stodgy foodstuffs, stews, pies, roasts etc that is based in our own history of farming in an unfriendly climate and in the coastal areas there are many different ways of preparing fish.
It is therefore not surprising that it wouldn’t necessarily be appealing to nations that don’t share our past or weather but it is firmly rooted in the North European tradition.
I would like to point out though that every year the United States sits down to a typically British meal when they have their roasted thanksgiving turkey. After all the first thanksgiving was held by English people and they were simply bringing a piece of home with them when they decided to eat the nearest, biggest bird they could find.
Thanks for the perspective, STV. I find these friendly squabbles between cousins (the Americans and the Brits) quite entertaining. (grin)
Friendly?
;P
I was going to point out that the burger is also sandwich which is of course British but I didn’t want to be too harsh on our American friends.
Having a good natured dig at the Yanks is a bit of a national sport but I think we like each other really!
Just for that, I’m not telling you what we put in the “secret sauce” at McDonald’s.
Hershey is a disgrace to the world of chocolate. I’ll always give the Yanks props where due, but their contribution to the world of chocolate is pathetic. Cadburys is the British standard – well, was until it was taken over by American Kraft Corp. – yet they still champion Hersheys – is Cadburys not available in America?
The US wins on hard candy tho – Nerds, Runts, Lifesavers, Jolly Ranchers.. someone send me some please.
Declaration of neutrality and an attempt to “link it to Israel”:
A pox on both your milk chocolate houses! I eat bittersweet, parveh chocolate and nothing else.
There’s a reason for this beyond my grandstanding, though. Chocolate (whether plain Elit “cow chocolate” or chocolate cake or winter’s krembo) is often a treat closing the Shabbat night meal; as that meal is invariably one of meat, and most Jews have to wait six hours before consuming milk after meat, the treat can’t be anything but parveh (neither milk nor meat).
Like people said here, a habit acquired in childhood—and that one sure qualifies for most religious Jewish families in Israel—is there to stay.
*Because of the figure of the cow on Elit’s chocolate cubes from time immemorial to this very day.
Oh, and there’s supposed to be an asterisk after the term “cow chocolate” to lead to the asterisk below. Gah! I hate it when this happens! This is almost as bad as an unclosed parenthesis in a programming language.
Ugh. Even Elite’s 60% cocoa chocolate is junk.
Try Schmerling’s Swiss 72% bittersweet for a decent parve piece of chocolate. Just let it melt in your mouth. Great with a tea.
Thanks for the pointer, I just hope it isn’t too pricey. I’m not much of a choconnoiseur (how that for a portmanteau coinage?), so my opinion on the difference between Elite and Schmerling might not be the best to go by.
(“Schmerling” underlined as a spelling error. Two of Firefox’s dictionary suggestions for correction: Schmoozing and Schmaltzy.)
Firefox suggests “shlemiel” for “shlemazel”. In this case, Firefox turns out to be the shlemazel.
No, that makes Firefox the shlemiel. The difference between the two, as my dad taught me so superbly, is this: The shlemiel spills his cup of coffee on the shirt of the shlemazel.
Correct. I got fahblunget.
Thank you for this very interesting column! My children, who love almost any kind of chocolate (including both Hersheys and Cadbury) will enjoy hearing this; maybe it will inspire them to become chemists when they grow up!
If kids are given both types of chocolate at an early age, they’ll love it all. Even Hershey’s chocolate still has a sweet taste, even if adults find another component that they don’t like to it.
Boy, you guys know how to rub it in for a poor diabetic.
Brian, I echo your opinion on American chocolate. We are British-Israelis and grew up on either Cadbury’s or Elite. When my husband first went to the US on a business trip we were so excited when he brought back bags of Hershey’s kisses and Hershey’s chocolate. What an utter disappointment! In fact, it went beyond disappointment. The entire household refused to eat the stuff after the first bite. It indeed tasted like vomit, and this chocoholic actually threw the whole lot in the dustbin. (That’s the garbage can to Americans).
Thanks for the scientific explanation though. At least we now understand how such a calamity befell the American confectionery industry.
I work in a chocolate factory in the North West of England and we used to produce & pack the Nestle Milky Bar Moments & Milky Bar Mini Eggs.We used Nestle’s white chocolate recipe and there was a temptation just to eat all day! Unfortunately, Nestle decided to move their business to the Czech Republic but we still make our own white chocolate buttons!
An American friend of mine loves our chocolate because we use more fat and natural ingredients.I sent her some of our chocolate for Christmas & it didn’t last long!
I’ve eaten a Kit-Kat in Hawaii and it didn’t taste too bad, actually, but I much prefer UK & European chocolate.
Talkback break’s over – back to work!
Thanks for your comment, nice to know we have a chocolate “insider” reading the blog!
Ha, the Lucy clip isn’t too far off the mark in some areas where I work!
The company I work for is very small compared to the giants in the industry but we beat them to win a prestigious award one year for selling the best tasting chocolate! We were in shock for weeks afterwards.
Many years ago we produced kosher products for a small company in Brooklyn, New York and I remember that a rabbi was on hand to make sure all the stages of production conformed to exact specifications.One product we made was mint flavoured chocolate beans, or Smartie-like lentils, and they were delicious.We don’t make them anymore, unfortunately.
We test every raw material thoroughly before allowing it to be used and we’ve seen a few interesting things in boxes of brazils from Colombia–beetles, dragonflies and other things.We sieve everything so they don’t get coated in chocolate and we metal detect everything we pack in case a foreign body has managed to infiltrate the production process.Our customers, like Tesco, Aldi or Morrisons, may come for an unnanounced visit and how we check for foreign objects is vital to keeping those customers.
We failed a customer audit last year because people were taking their hair net off before their overall instead of the other way round.A simple thing like that may not seem important but it wasn’t the correct procedure.We have more health & safety regulations than a hospital but they’re important.In such bad economic times we need all our customers to keep eating our chocolate!
Alas, no crunchy frog?
I only wish that my favourite shawarma restaurants would take food hygiene so seriously.
Hershey is disgusting (its not even chocolate). I refuse to eat it anymore. I love Cadbury and Elite!